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Why exalting «bad taste» means being fashionable?

14.09.2017 — by Victoria K

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To find beauty in Vulgarity is the most daring gesture of a modern Aesthete

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«100 enviable brides» magazine, «dick» or «fuck-the-whole-world» obsession, shoes on the platform as an office dress-code, the best flower-bed contests, Ukrainian park «Mezhyhirye» as a symbol of modern Versailles style, the wedding salon in the underground passage. This has become the symbol of revolt among some people with critical thinking. Too much poison come undone. But there is a savage – «so bad, that it’s good»- the claim of Susan Sondagh in her «Notes on “Camp”»


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To explain the term, most usually such a context is recalled:

  • The taste of the camp was common in gay communities cultivating a feigned, hypertrophied femininity
  • The French origin of the term (se camper – “taking the pose of excessive mannerisms”). Camp helps to recognize this pose and enjoy its artificiality – no matter how monstrous it may look

«Camp was born as an “identification sign” in the circle of the intellectual elite, confident in its refined taste so that it can count itself entitled to reconsider what was perceived as “bad taste” yesterday and overestimate unnatural and excessive», Umberto Eco wrote in the “On Ugliness”, interpreting the notes Sontag.

Modern “posers” is the ability to exalt a bad taste with the help of an ironic look and an erudite brain that can find quotes and surround something with a lot of meanings. Have you already found beauty in the concerts of Kirkorov? In the dressing to the church – net tights, leather jacket and leopard dress. To show everyone you saw a different dimension of the podium trends. Noticed a set of inexpensive lace underwear as an example of democratization of fashion.

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According to the recipe of the Camp, advanced modern fashion is being made: it transmits radical, borderline aesthetic things – sandals and jeans with tights, bracelets from table porcelain, souvenir sweatshirts, fakes – into fashion. A warm look at “chavs”(British slang) is a Camp.

The cooperation of Gosha Rubchinsky with Burberry in the spring-summer collection – 2018 might seem fatal for the brand. All eight models introduced into the men’s collection reminded of the very same football fanatics, because of which the brand rapidly lost its reputation in the 90’s. Modern “chavs” versions of Rubchinsky were stylized to the collection to revive the falling sales.

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-menswear/gosha-rubchinskiy

The capsule collection, released by Gucci together with the Spanish artist Coco Capitán, went on sale in late July, is an assortment of layouts with staff like waistbags or a T-shirt with a large logo. The introduction of such an assortment to the collection of the House is a trick concerning the subject of counterfeits and an example of the “overall redundancy” of the style that creative director Alessandro Michele has made Gucci a new style.

https://www.gucci.com/us/en/st/capsule/coco-capitan-men

The winner of the LVMH Prize 2017 Prize Marin Serr won with a collection, mixed in sports and a Muslim costume, which she dedicated to the Syrian emigrants.

https://www.vogue.com/article/lvmh-prize-2017-winner-marine-serre

Camp taste is, above all, a mode of enjoyment, of appreciation – not judgment. Camp is generous. It wants to enjoy. It only seems like malice, cynicism. (Or, if it is cynicism, it’s not a ruthless but a sweet cynicism.) Camp taste doesn’t propose that it is in bad taste to be serious; it doesn’t sneer at someone who succeeds in being seriously dramatic. What it does is to find the success in certain passionate failures.

freshPeople

Meet Zhijun Wang

03.08.2017 — by Victoria K

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This is actually a guide how to look stylish even in the circumstances of deeply polluted air area. This Chinese designer is aiming a purpose to create a “face gear” combining functionality and style.

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Beijing based former marathon runner, Zhijun Wang became one of the rising young talents in the arena of Chinese fashion industry. Why he is worth such attention? That’s quite obvious-Wang is demolishing pairs of valuable sneakers and regenerates them as anti-smog masks in his bid to raise international awareness to severe air pollution in China.

Zhijun Wang’s Istagram account

Chinese people often wear face masks for health protection, but currently most of youth faced a problem concerning lack of stylish choices Chinese mass markets offering. So Wang took it upon himself to combine functionality and fashion.

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One of his most hyped creations was made of a pair of Yeezy Boost 350 V2s – a really rare pair which was picked up by “sneakerheads” for crazy amount of $10000.

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When wealthy Yeezy consumers got their creations, Wang said that he always reminds himself that most of consumers concerned only with “aesthetics lying on surface”. And, therefore, China “has long way to go” when people come to make purchases being influenced by environmental consciousness.

Prior 2014, Wang had already been experimenting with custom designs for sneakers, and still does. However, making pollution masks was entirely different matter.
For his first mask Wang used a pannel from Nike jacket and combined it with Flyknit racer silo shoe. The next ones were completely made up from Nike shoe with its side panels wrapping around the jaw and the laces securing it behind the head.
At the same time Wang met enormous feedback as famous brands began sending him their latest releases to be reconstructed into pollution masks.

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In total, currently Wang has made about 20 highly lauded unique masks, and, therefore, received enormous feedback from all over the world. But designer said he turned all the business offers down, urging that creating masks for the masses for money wasn’t his ultimate goal.

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