Dean and Dan Caten may have holidayed in St. Barth’s with the rest of the fashion pack, but inspiration-wise, they’ve already said goodbye to the beach. The surfer theme that enlivened their Spring show was replaced here by a military motif and elegantly straightforward tailoring, mixed up with more of the dresses that have become best sellers at the duo’s new stateside stores. As a brand built on denim, the success of their frocks counts as a genuine surprise for the Catens, and they’re running with it. LBDs of all lengths and shapes mingled on the racks, the femme counterpoints to officer’s coats and single- and double-breasted tuxedos that showcased their years of experience in menswear. Overall, the collection can be divided into two genres: men’s things in the military style and very feminine dresses with perfect decorations.
The color palette was dominated by white, blue and black, but the designers have successfully diluted monotony of the collection, adding a few bright silk items of clothing; there was little to distract from the fine workmanship of those Le Smokings. But the relative dearth of color and print meant this collection lacked some of the spirit that the Caten brothers are famous for. Chances are it’ll be back in full effect on their Fall runway.