DKfashionhistoryPeople

Every path has its puddle

13.08.2015 — by DK

main

DKfashionhistoryPeople

Every path has its puddle

13.08.2015 — by DK

image«Balenciaga — the only fashion designer who is able to model their own, cut and sew.» — of the great fashion designer Coco Chanel herself responded … Cristobal opened his first studio in San Sebostyane, when he was only 16 years old. Later, after moving to the capital of fashion, Balenciaga got his first clients — only special lades — Queen Victoria of Spain, Queen of Belgium Fabiola Duchess of Windsor Elizabeth, Princess of Monaco Grace — all of them were recognized as the most well-dressed women in the world. It’s not a snobbery, just if you do something qualitatively and even himself — the risk to go into circulation there. Pret-a-porter line did not inspire the designer at all — only haute couture. Probably Balenciaga, remaining a cult figure for colleagues, much less known to the general public. Meanwhile, experts called the end of the 1940s and 1950s, «the Balenciaga’s age». During that time, he created something on what still stands a modern design: a narrow straight silhouette in the shape I, dresses barrels, coat-rack of free jackets with huge hoods, trapeze dresses, hat-boxes, «flying» without coats buttons and collar. It is only 10% of the images, which are still exploiting modern designers.Christian Dior called Cristobal Balenciaga «our master» — the designer dressed wife Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn and Rothschild’s family women. American ladies risked their lives crossing the Atlantic in the early 40’s — losing Balenciaga dress was worse than falling into the hands of the Nazis.imageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageBut the 90 years of the brand to become a protracted agony of the assets had a line of fragrances and invaluable archive wizard. In 1995 the post of lead designer came 26-year-old Frenchman Nicolas Ghesquière, who previously worked at Jean-Paul Gaultier and Trussardi. For Ghesquière was lowering, he was in charge of the most run-down areas, inventing a form of golfers and funeral clothing for the Japanese market. «Many would agree that I took a worse position in the world.» But three years later, everything changed. Since then, the collections once again talking about the sales began to grow, the House joined the Gucci Group. The remarkable ability to Nicolas — the creation of sports fabrics (parachute silk, plastic, neoprene and nylon) fine clothes. In 2005, Time magazine includes Ghesquière in the list of 100 most influential people of the year — and he’s the only designer in the charts. Balenciaga dresses Jennifer Connelly and other stars for the Oscars, is sewing a wedding dress for Nicole Kidman, composes tour costumes for Kylie Minogue. Under the brand Balenciaga Edition published rethought the classic home. Ghesquière Influence diverges far beyond the circle of VIPs: Hobbies narrow trousers, crumpled blazer and orthopedic shoes, proper took pandemic. The designer’s work is obviously seen craze not only in sports, but also fiction: his collection — is often an exercise in retro-futurism, wonderful story about far. Ghesquière himself believes that this is a very French story. But in 2012, after 15 incredible years of work at Balenciaga as Creative Director on November 30 Ghesquière left the French fashion house, by mutual consent of the parties, as stated in the official sources. In parting, last October at the Paris Fashion Week designer showed the most powerful and beautiful S/S 2013 collection, which is going to be remembered by fashionistas forever.imageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageimageAppointment of Alexander Wang to the post of creative director of Balenciaga in 2012 came as a shock to the fashion community.imageSkeptics who call Wang «designer shirts» did not believe in his ability to work with the archives of the old houses and interpret them adequately, and called it a pragmatic decision holding Kering, which owns the brand Balenciaga, absolutely correct from a commercial point of view. The candidacy of the designer, who enjoys huge support in the US and Chinese roots make it his in East, they called the correct and timely solution for Balenciaga. On the first collection for the house of France, Wang critics responded positively, calling it a smooth and promising. Some, however, noted designer stiffness and expressed his desire to see more clearly the personal style. The following collections Wang has added corporate urbanism and sports to the notes of the sculptural lines of style Cristobal Balenciaga. Parish Balenciaga opened for active Wang additional creative possibilities. He created the first fragrance from the laconic title «B». The American designer has been involved not only in the creation of the bouquet, but also designed the bottle, the main element of which was the «cracked glass».imageThis method refers to the first collection for Wang Balenciga, part of the image which have a similar texture. But initially — a kind of homage to the designer’s first salon in Paris, French House, drawing on the marble floor which had a similar mark.imageimageimageimageimageAnd on July 29 was officially announced that the popular young American designer Alexander Wang resigned as the creative director of Balenciaga, after 3 years of successful activity. Such rumors have long walked since Kering has not yet updated the contract with Wang.imageimageimageimageSpring-summer show, scheduled for the autumn of 2015 in the framework of the Paris Fashion Week, will be the last for Alexander as a designer in Paris brand. According to some reports, inspired by the success of Alessandro Michele in Gucci (another major brand in the portfolio of the holding), Kering will be looking for a new creative director among the less well-known designers, most likely within their brands. Time will tell…