During the last week of fashion ready-to-wear FW15-16 in search of inspiration, designers turned to the 80th years of the last century. At the shows of Dior, Gucci and Versace viewers blinded by motley prints, beads and rhinestones by disco style. But there came a new season, according to the rules of circulation of fashion, autumn and winter we had to dress in the best laws of the genre 90s, but apparently, the designers decided that we not managed to miss on short tops, bag on shoulder and a large jeans in 20 years. Each designer presented his unrelated to a certain era collection, but I managed to trace one common tematichnost- era of vaudeville and noisy parties, at rather 1910s and 1920s. I have made for you a selection of the most interesting, in my opinion, of presented collections.
The most interesting was the collection of Givenchy. Ricardo Tisci presented his 10th collection. All things were very feminine and chic. The designer chose a rather unusual for contemporary fashion fabrics: elegant and sexy silk, cotton and retro flirty and cute lace. Each blouse or dress perfectly couched in the style of the last century. In such outfits can imagine the heroines of Fitzgerald or Maugham. Couturier managed to repeat fashion of 100 years ago and brilliantly contrived it for modern fashion standards, managing to keep the aristocratic spirit.
Fashion style of Gatsby’s ladies also provided us with the designers of the New World. American brand Rodarte created a collection for contemporary lovers of poetry and drama. Overall image: woman, created as a consequence of symbiosis Pushkin’s Tatyana Larina (Evgeniy Onegin) and the heroines of the film Man from U.N.C.L.E. (Guy Ritchie; 2015). Light lace and satin, combined with velvet and bulk applications of crystals and stones work on the contrast with the youth of models. Massive decorations on the wrists and hair look if they got out of an old grandmother’s jewelry box of pre-war times. The designers were able to catch the latest trend of antiques and vintage. Patterned tights look wonderful. The entire collection is very delicate and feminine.
This season, the young New York’s designer Peter Copping, he made his debut in the role of chief designer of the brand Oscar de la Renta, Peter previously worked for Nina Ricci. A year ago, October 20, 2014, the news of the death of de la Renta shocked the fashion community. In 2006, the press service of the fashion house Oscar de la Renta reported that the designer was diagnosed with cancer. In 2013, it was announced the successful completion of treatment, and the final recovery of the company’s founder.
Oscar de la Renta has died at the age of 82 years. At that time, he was the oldest active US fashion designer. One of his last works was Amal Alamuddin wedding dress, the bride of George Clooney. Let’s return to the show in New York: the first Copping’s collection has been very decent. Couturier was able to maintain the style and image of the brand, introduced at the same time something of their own: a modern and provocative. All the items have been created, as before, under the influence of the spirit of the last century. Lace, silk and linen and corruption – exquisite fabrics clothes betray discreet chic and gentility. Any girl, wearing a dress from the new collection feels like English Baroness or Russian princess, from the pre-revolutionary era. Excellent quality and femininity has always been the hallmark of the brand. That’s why celebrities always choose an outfit from Oscara de la Renta for the celebrations: in the US there was a catch phrase: ” on “Oscar ” will put on from Oscar.” I am happy that after the death of the designer, this glorious tradition isn’t interrupted …
Thom Browne collection caused a sensation at the show during of the NYFW. Trendy outfits with a pronounced androgenic and vintage Victorian touch. Designer completely revised female three-piece suit and impeccably implemented elements of the male wardrobe items from French Impressionism era, in the style of Monet, Renoir or Matisse.
Italian brand for young girls Red Valentino released lookbook rtw15-16. I am delighted with the new collection. Mark was able to create an image of the nymph adding lyrical medieval dress with leather inserts: in the form of tops, lace, vintage cuts. Corsets and silhouettes reminded me of dancers in a variety show from the Baz Luhrmann’s film “Moulin Rouge.” But tulle skirt, slim childish decorated lace, floral applique, flirty schoolgirl socks and collars create an image of a young, but infantile excellent pupil from pages of Nabokov’s novel.